If you aren’t looking for the stairs, you might miss them.
Nestled amongst the jungle of trees and homes on the back of Telegraph Hill, the Filbert Street Stairs are a quiet oasis in the chaotic center of San Francisco.
I first stumbled upon these magical steps in March 2020 while on a search for a new and empty place to walk. A few blocks from the Embarcadero, the stairs are a tranquil and much less populated escape from that busy walking strip along the bay. Located at the very end of Filbert Street, at Sansome, the beginning of the path up Telegraph Hill is an intimidatingly steep set of stairs that appear to cut into a rocky cliff.
After ascending this initial climb, you will be rewarded with a view of the San Francisco portion of the Bay Bridge. Continue moving upwards and you will soon enter a narrow wooden set of stairs reminiscent of those in the home of the Weasley family from the Harry Potter books.
Photo by Anna Hochman
Walking past narrow paths and charming homes, you may feel as if you have come across a secret garden that is magically tucked away from the rest of the city. Each colorful home’s jungle-like front yard is more vibrant than the one before, creating the optimal setting for one of my favorite activities: peering through gates and imagining the lives of those who occupy the residences. In the trees you might even see some of San Francisco’s famous flock of green parrots.
Photo by Anna Hochman
The wooden path ends and the wider stone steps begin after crossing Montgomery Street. This second portion of stairs is more tame, with groomed bushes and slightly fancier homes lining the walkway. Upon ascending the last stair, you will arrive at the base of Coit Tower.
Completed in 1933 and named after Lillie Hitchcock Coit, a patron of San Francisco firefighters, the tower stands tall in San Francisco’s skyline. During non-COVID times, visitors can buy tickets in the gift shop to enter the tower, to view the murals inside which cover the walls and climb to the top. The murals were painted by local artists, many inspired by Diego Rivera. The artists were chosen by a panel led by the head of the DeYoung Art Museum and employed by the Public Works of Art Project (what came before the Works Progress Administration). They depict scenes of life in California during the early 1930s. At the top of the tower, one may step outside to absorb the magnificent view of the Bay Area.
Photo by Anna Hochman
Currently, due to COVID, the view from the top of Telegraph Hill will have to do. Depending on which side of the peak you are on, either the Bay Bridge or the Golden Gate Bridge will be in view, along with the glistening blues of the bay and the subtly rising and falling hills of San Francisco and beyond.
Photo by Anna Hochman
After journeying back down to the stairs to the bottom of the hill and venturing back into real life, walk along the Embarcadero for a few blocks and head into the Ferry Plaza. On Thursdays and Saturdays, the farmers’ market offers stalls filled with fresh produce, baked goods, prepared foods and much more. You deserve a treat after climbing all those steps!
